Slatwall Panel Installation Instructions -
for home, retail, or commercial installations
Slatwall panels are heavy. Minimally they weight 90 lbs. for a 4x8 panel without any aluminum groove treatments. Make sure you have enough help to handle the panels.
Keep in mind that minor damage to any “stacking” lip can usually be concealed in the groove. Also in a normal installation there is usually a few panels that have to be cut shorter than their original length so consider using damaged panels for cutting to size.
Do not stack panels directly onto a concrete floor. It is good to let the panels equalize in temperature and humidity with the space they will be installed in. Note: it is normal for slatwall panels to take on a slight warp since they are laminated one side and the process of grooving relieves some internal stress in the board.
Make sure you have the right tools for the job. Minimally you will need a 24” level, tape measure, pencil, a circular saw for cutting any panels to size and a good cordless or corded drill to use as a power screwdriver.
Examples might be a professional laser level, drywall square, chalk line, power saber saw for cutting out electrical outlets. Another handy tool is something called The Jack of all Trades available from http://fastcap.com. Two of these make leveling the panels a breeze.
1 ½” to 2” drywall or other equivalent screws.Tan deck screws are a good color match to MDF, or Anchor™ Core. Use round head screws on panels with metal inserts. Make sure the fasteners have heads that will easily fit in the groove.
Safety First – Wear safety glasses when using any power tool and hearing protection when using any noisy piece of equipment.mRemember, slatwall panels are heavy. Do not try to install slatwall panels by yourself.
Check with your local community for any necessary building permits and construction codes. Building codes differ from community to community. Some communities require fire rated slatwall that is higher than a typical “C” rating, or drywall of a certain thickness. Others might require a thicker drywall, or metal studs
Working with Metal Studs
Metal studs do not have as much screw holding power as wooden studs. It is best to use some wooden blocking in some strategic places. The more blocking the better in most cases.
Block or Concrete Walls
Install vertical or horizontally oriented furring strips onto the walls first using concrete fasteners like TapCons. http://concretescrews.com. It’s not recommended, and pretty hard, to install slatwall directly onto a concrete or block wall.
Insulation and vapor barrier
Now is the time to properly insulate any exterior walls for energy efficiency. Use a proper vapor barrier over the insulation.
Additional electrical work must be done before you close up the wall. In a remodel, now is the time to make any changes or add new outlets and switches. Again, check your local building codes. Electrical boxes must extend an additional ¾” to accommodate the thickness of the slatwall. This is easily accomplished in new construction, but a little more difficult with existing electrical work. A great solution to this is an "electrical box extender" by Arlington Industries. Check with your local building or electrical supply store, or Google it and you will find a number of selections.
Where to start?
Take the time to do a little planning. If you are doing an entire wall it might be better to start off with a smaller panel. Let’s say you had a 25 ft. wall of slatwall to install. A better looking slatwall installation would be to start and end the wall with a 4 1/2ft. piece rather than ending the wall with a 1 ft. piece. Either way you need to cut into the 4th piece of slatwall, you might as well make it look nice. See slatwall cutting instructions below. Once you have determined the height above the floor to start, chalk a level line on the wall. It will also help if you put a mark on the floor and ceiling where each stud is. This will help in determining where to put the fasteners.
Installing Slatwall panels
Alignment - Each of our slatwall panels comes with an installation label on the back side that will help you determine the best “factory edge”. If you are stacking the slatwall higher than 4’ make sure that these edges line up for best groove and panel alignment.
Here is where the fun begins. Spread some (optional) panel adhesive vertically on the back of the panel. Typically one panel uses a half-tube of adhesive. Follow the manufacturer’s directions on the adhesive. Using “The Jacks” or a few others to help, raise the first panel up to the level line and put one fastener (screw) through a top full groove into the studs near one of the corners. You can use an upside down slatwall shelf bracket in a groove to help lift the panel.
Double check with your level and install second fastener in opposite corner. It is very important that the first panel is level. Using the drywall square draw light vertical lines with a pencil where the center of each stud is. This pencil line can be easily removed with a solvent later. Now install fasteners in every other, or every third groove. You must predrill holes in any aluminum inserts.
Repeat the process on the remaining panels making sure you line up the grooves from panel to panel. On installations where there is no drywall backing, such as a garage, makes sure the end of each panel comes out in the middle of a stud. It is very difficult to match up cut ends of panels that are trimmed to length in the field.
With proper planning, any "cuts" made in the slatwall panels should end up in a corner, or in a place where it can be trimmed out. The upper row of slatwall panels (if going higher than 4 ft.) installs just like the bottom. This can be done as you go along, or after you get the entire bottom row installed. Make sure the factory edges mate with the bottom row factory edge.
Cutting Slatwall Panels
Always cut from the backside of the panel when using a portable circular saw. Never try to “freehand” cut with a portable circular saw, as it is not very accurate, and extremely unsafe. Set up a good guide for the edge of the saw to follow. Always wear hearing protection when cutting slatwall panels.
Cutting slatwall with aluminum inserts – It is not necessary to take the aluminum out of the grooves before cutting. In fact it is easier to cut the panel with the aluminum in the grooves. Do this only with a sharp carbide tipped blade. Run a piece of wide masking tape over the inserts parallel to the groove. This will help keep the aluminum from shifting during your cut.
Cutting for electrical boxes
This is probably the most challenging part of a slatwall installation. The most important rule is “measure twice, cut once” because you typically do not get a second chance to get the hole in the right place.
Do all your measurements and layout on either the front or backside of the panel. If you do it on the front side, make sure that you use a sharp, fine tooth blade on your reciprocating saw to avoid chipping of the face material.
Drill a hole large enough to fit the saw blade in one of the corners.
Carefully cut the material for the box opening, then test fit the panel before applying adhesive to the back.
(Note) - If your panels have metal (aluminum) inserts, use a jig saw with a fine tooth metal blade to cut through the metal. If you leave the metal in the panel to make the cut, make sure it is held down tightly with tape.
Rooms and walls are rarely level or square. Wood trim can be your installer’s best friend. Leaving a one or two inch gap at the top (if it’s a floor to ceiling install) or bottom and then using trim is easier than coping each panel to fit. You will find trim that will work at most building centers or lumber yards. It can be either painted or stained.
|Inside Corner Trim for Slatwall installation||Using simple wood trim in Slatwall installation|
Clean Up – Remove any adhesive that might have gotten on the face of the panels with some solvent such as lacquer thinner. Do the same with the pencil lines you drew to help locate the studs. Clean the panels with a mild household cleaner and soft cloth.